Tank Jacket Retrofit

The insulation and cladding come off where the panels go, and the jacket is insulated again once it is fitted, because a bare panel gives a large share of its duty to the room. Plan the new cladding around the panel headers and connections so they can still be reached. Tell us the insulation you intend to use and its thickness, and the heat loss is included in the rating.

It needs to fill the gaps between the pillow crowns and the shell without leaving a thick layer, since mastic conducts far worse than steel. Clean, sound shell surface lets the panel seat evenly. Weld spatter, old paint or pitting under a panel create voids, so prepare the area before panels go on.

On almost any heated or chilled tank it does, because the outside face of the panel otherwise loses or gains heat to the room. Insulation over the panels also protects people from hot surfaces and stops condensation on chilled ones. Leave access to the bolts if the panels may be removed later.

Each panel has its own inlet and outlet, usually piped in paralell through headers so every panel sees a similar medium temperture. On steam, condensate must leave from the low point of each panel. Tell us the medium and where the supply and return run so the headers can be laid out to suit.

Panels can be pressed to shape, so heads and cones can often take surface, though the cylindrical shell is the simplest part to cover. Bottom coverage is worth adding where the tank often runs at low level. Send the head type and dimensions with the shell drawing.

Per square foot it is somewhat slower, because the mastic layer and shell wall sit between the medium and the contents. That gap is usually made up with more panel area or a warmer medium. In exchange you avoid cutting the vessel, and in most retrofits that trade is the whole reason for choosing it.